Wednesday, 9 January 2013

OUGD401 Lecture Notes: Fashion Photoraphy

Louis Daguerre, boulevard the temple 1838

William Henry fox talbot
Invents a fixing process
Calotype

Lady Alice Mary Keres portrait of Wilfred s blunt

Virginia oldoini, adolphe Braun 1865
Set up theatrical scenes
Becomes the director as she commissions others to take photos of her
Erotic nature at times
'Poetical history of life'
Pushing boundaries of what is sexually acceptable at the time


Age of fashion magazines
First 10 year of 1900's photography is used in mass production
Replacing illustrations in magazines

Paul poirets design for art et decoration 1911- Edward Steichen
Pictorialism- soft rendering like brush work, paintily and dream like soft focus and grain

Adolf de Meyer 1920's


1930's move away from pictorial ism due to modernism
Martin munkacsi
Testing boundaries

Edward Steichen in height fashion
Moves away from pictorialism, structured and sculptural, abstract
Marian moorehouse

La mode pratique

Hoyningen heune


Salvador dalis 'dream of Venus' Horst p Horst

Cecil Beaton 1904-1980
British vogue and vanity fair
Photographed "bright young things"
British royals

Vivienne Leigh for vogue mid 1930's
Placed her in the back stage in the wings. Impression of a star not in the lime light. Reminds us of the glimpse of a extravagant life style we may never have seen. Harsh lighting adds impact and drama. If you we're photographed by Cecil you were an important person.

Queen Elizabeth 1968
Environmental
Not just about fashion but about wealth and the life style that comes with that

Lee miller photographed by Steichen
Young model who became a photographer her self
Goes to Paris in 1929 with man ray
Also a war correspondent

Night bathing 1939 reference to classical female figure

40s-50s colour available, but never used in fashion photography


William Klein 1950's

Brings in a documentary style photography in to fashion.
Interested in catching reaction
Playful use of real life

David bailey

Photography links with popular culture
Mick jagger

Terence Donovan spy drama 1962


Models such as jean shrimp ton become everyday girls, the girls next door and not women with unattainable stance and wealth. shaking of the austerity, and embracing the sexual and musical youth culture. 

Brian Duffy jean shrimpton on the edgeware

Richard avedon in the American west. Giving us in between moments of shots interactions relatable 


1920-2004
Helmet Newton 

Guy Bourdin for Charles Jourdan shoes
Dark poetic 

Jamel Shabazz, back in the days, published 2002

Straight up photography
Real people on the street 
Street style 
I.D magazine 1980 
I.D vs The Face 
Heroine chic
Drug and dancy style 

Juergen Teller 1964
German photographer
Worked with Vivienne Westwood , Marc Jacobs 
Works with musicians 

Corrine Day 1965-2010
British fashion photography 
Worked for The face & Vogue
Kate moss waif look 
Tara - documentary project 

Adobe Photoshop 
Digital image manipulation
Graphics editing programme
First launched 2003 

Terry Richardson
US photographer
Worked for vogue, vanity fair, I.D, harper bazaar 

Nick Knight
UK photographer 
Worked with yohji yammamoto in the 90s and with Alexander McQueen, Christian Dior
Vogue, another, vanity fair

Fashion blogging
Democratises fashion photography
Anyone can write about/photograph fashion
Tavi Genvinsons "style rookie"
Streetstyle Copenhagen 
Poppy Dinsey 2011 - what I wore today 
Company Magazine 20 more fashion bloggers celebrated, 
put forward as a way into employment 
Seems to celebrate real and street 

Exacitudes- ari versluis
Neighbours 2008
Cassettes Gang 2008
Individuality is not possibly
Grouping people together 

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