OUGD401 Lecture Notes: Photography as Document

Jacob A. Riis "a growler gang in session" ( robbing a lush) 1887 - street Arabs, the lawless youth, rein-acted 

Lewis hine, Russian steel workers, homestead 1908 - sociological, never exploit, retains self, reports the conditions 

Duffer boy 1909 

F.S.A- farm security administration - migration, desperate for work 

Margaret Bourke-white "sharecroppers home" 1937 - temporary structure built for shelter, lined with newspaper, practical material, insulated, creative, not objective, Opposite of American dream 

Russell lee "interior of a black farmers house" 1939 - less artistic use of composition, meekly recording 

Dorothea Lange "migrant mother" 1936 
Hungry, desperate, no name or her history 
Iconic, classic mother n child sitch,

Walker Evans - floyd Burroughs (gerorge gudger) hale county 1936 - no editing or manipulation, real gritty poverty

Bill Brandt - Northumberland miners at his evening meal 1937 - northerner, working class

Robert frank 'parade - Hoboken, New Jersey' 1958 - contradict, othering not exploitative 

William Klein st Patrick's day, fifth avenue 1954 - 55 - his presents is akbowledged

Dance in Brooklyn 1955 - blur, dark connotation, captures movement of the city, grain and blur - redefine the tradition of documentary 

Magnum group - founded in 1947 by henri Cartier Bresson - unaware of presence , seamless photographer, surrealism, mystery 

The decisive moment - photography achieves its highest distinction - reflecting the universality of the human condition in a never-to-be moment

France 1932 pic , reflection in the water, sees the world as a stage, no manipulation, modernism, truth to the materials 

Documentary and war 
Robert capa "the falling soldier" 1935 - the moment of the soldiers death, claims its wasn't real,
Robert capa " Normandy, France" 1945 

George Rodger "Bergen - Belsen concentration camp" 1945 , horror, 

Lee miller 

Hung cong ut - attack 1972, anti war statement, iconic, viewers discuss, relation of the photographer to the subject, 

Robert haeberle "people about to be shot" 1969 - implicit shooting, desire to gather info, overrides human response 

Don McCullin "she'll shocked soldier" 1968 - trauma, retreats, idealised landscapes 

Vietnam - reffered to the war in colour

Documentary exhaustion Clarke 1997;163 

William niedich 1989 - documentary constructed, attempt to re-write American history, sydjugation of American Indians, 9 th cent processes 

Edward Curtis native north Americans (early 20th century) 

Rodger Korangi, Nuba tribesmen, 1940 

Bruno barbey - left wing riot protesting 1972, aesthetic over social impact 

Jeremy deller "the battle of orgreave" 2001 

Deller is both reserving the memory of political struggles which no longer have force in the culture - Nash 2006 

OUGD401 Lecture notes: Avante-garde Cinema

Avante-garde Cinema

• In opposition to main stream cinema 
• Non linear/ Non figurative/ Non narrative
• Require a different kind of spectatorship
• Hard to define, challenges and questions peoples understanding
• Radicalism- doesn't get shown because it doesn't appeal to general audience
• Outside capitalism

Un chien andalou (1929) Dir. Lius Bunuel

Un chien andalou is a 1929 silent surrealist short film by the Spanish director Luis Buñuel and artist Salvador Dalí. It was Buñuel's first film and was initially released in 1929 with a limited showing at Studio des Ursulines in Paris, but became popular and ran for eight months.The film has no plot in the conventional sense of the word. The chronology of the film is disjointed, jumping from the initial "once upon a time" to "eight years later" without the events or characters changing very much. It uses dream logic in narrative flow that can be described in terms of then-popular Freudian free association, presenting a series of tenuously related scenes.

The idea for the film began when Buñuel was working as an assistant director for Jean Epstein in France. Buñuel told Dalí at a restaurant one day about a dream in which a cloud sliced the moon in half "like a razor blade slicing through an eye". Dalí responded that he'd dreamed about a hand crawling with ants. Excitedly, Buñuel declared: "There's the film, let's go and make it.'" They were fascinated by what the psyche could create, and decided to write a script based on the concept of suppressed human emotions.

Massively influencial and the start of what radical cinema could become.
Still inspires and influences people to this day



Mathew Barney- Cremaster

The film project was 8 years in the making 1994-2002, it consists of 5 feature length films, accompanying sculptures, drawings and photographs. It alludes the process of sexual differentiation during the embryonic process. Filmed in the Guggenheim gallery.

Oskar Fischinger- Spirals

Modernist
Hypnotic 
'in the process of seeing you become aware of seeing and the coordination between the eye and the brain'


James Whitney-Lapis 1966

tried to link speed of the film to brain waves. Romantic, with a mysticism about the word. Categorised as a romantic poetic film.

Stan Brakhage-Black ice 1944

Stan Barkhage-Moth light 1963

A giant in American avant garde cinema

tried to portray a sense of hynagogia- a state between waking and sleeping. a shamanistic vision where nothing makes sense but your brain is still functioning.

He often blurred hand painted film with actual film

James Stanley Brakhage  better known as Stan Brakhage, was an American non-narrative filmmaker. He is considered to be one of the most important figures in 20th-century experimental film.

Over the course of five decades, Brakhage created a large and diverse body of work, exploring a variety of formats, approaches andtechniques that included handheld camerawork, painting directly onto celluloid, fast cutting, in-camera editing, scratching on film, collage film and the use of multiple exposures. Interested in mythology and inspired by music, poetry, and visual phenomena, Brakhage sought to reveal the universal in the particular, exploring themes of birth, mortality, sexuality, and innocence.

Brakhage's films are often noted for their expressiveness and lyricism

Photoshop workshop- Post Card Research

The earliest known picture postcard was a hand-painted design on card, posted in London to the writer Theodore Hook in 1840 bearing a penny black stamp. He probably created and posted the card to himself as a practical joke on the postal service, since the image is a caricature of workers in the post office.

 

This is claimed to be the first ever printed post card.

People often used their own photographs of family portraits as post cards. It was a way of sending personal photos to family who may not live close. Over time the purpose of postcards has broadened greatly postcards are now a form of invitation or thank you, they are often sent from galleries and museums.

I really like the simple back of this postcard. I am planning to have a standard layout for my own postcards.

I like the stock used for these postcards, it helps add new tones and depth to the monotonous print. I like the simplistic patterns and forms of the shapes.

I really like these postcards as a collective. I think the use of the penguin logo on the back and front of every postcards makes them look really cohesive. I would like to use a logo or motif on my postcards to tire them all together and make sure they work as a set.

The theme i got given for my post card was circle. I started by looking at general circular designs to get inspiration.

I really like the ambiguity of the disappearing circle in this design. This is something I would like to use in my own work. I also like the use of bright colours against the neutral background.

I like the use of monochrome in this image. This design is also more relevant to the brief as it uses photography.   

I really like the way that the photography in this circle is very abstract and obstructed. I also really like the spacing between the circles and the use of colours. There are lots of colours used but the spacing and neutral background mean its not over baring. 

Overall i think my research has really helped me and i feel well informed to go and design my post cards now. I am going to use the some of the ideas that i has seen whilst researching, for instance i want to have a really simple and stylised back of my postcards. I also want to use my photographs in an abstract and interesting way. To make them seem like attract painting and forms rather than true photography.

OUGD401 Lecture Notes: Fashion Photoraphy

Louis Daguerre, boulevard the temple 1838

William Henry fox talbot
Invents a fixing process
Calotype

Lady Alice Mary Keres portrait of Wilfred s blunt

Virginia oldoini, adolphe Braun 1865
Set up theatrical scenes
Becomes the director as she commissions others to take photos of her
Erotic nature at times
'Poetical history of life'
Pushing boundaries of what is sexually acceptable at the time


Age of fashion magazines
First 10 year of 1900's photography is used in mass production
Replacing illustrations in magazines

Paul poirets design for art et decoration 1911- Edward Steichen
Pictorialism- soft rendering like brush work, paintily and dream like soft focus and grain

Adolf de Meyer 1920's


1930's move away from pictorial ism due to modernism
Martin munkacsi
Testing boundaries

Edward Steichen in height fashion
Moves away from pictorialism, structured and sculptural, abstract
Marian moorehouse

La mode pratique

Hoyningen heune


Salvador dalis 'dream of Venus' Horst p Horst

Cecil Beaton 1904-1980
British vogue and vanity fair
Photographed "bright young things"
British royals

Vivienne Leigh for vogue mid 1930's
Placed her in the back stage in the wings. Impression of a star not in the lime light. Reminds us of the glimpse of a extravagant life style we may never have seen. Harsh lighting adds impact and drama. If you we're photographed by Cecil you were an important person.

Queen Elizabeth 1968
Environmental
Not just about fashion but about wealth and the life style that comes with that

Lee miller photographed by Steichen
Young model who became a photographer her self
Goes to Paris in 1929 with man ray
Also a war correspondent

Night bathing 1939 reference to classical female figure

40s-50s colour available, but never used in fashion photography

William Klein 1950's
Brings in a documentary style photography in to fashion.
Interested in catching reaction
Playful use of real life

David bailey
Photography links with popular culture
Mick jagger

Terence Donovan spy drama 1962

Models such as jean shrimp ton become everyday girls, the girls next door and not women with unattainable stance and wealth. shaking of the austerity, and embracing the sexual and musical youth culture. 
Brian Duffy jean shrimpton on the edgeware

Richard avedon in the American west. Giving us in between moments of shots interactions relatable 

1920-2004
Helmet Newton 

Guy Bourdin for Charles Jourdan shoes
Dark poetic 

Jamel Shabazz, back in the days, published 2002

Straight up photography
Real people on the street 
Street style 
I.D magazine 1980 
I.D vs The Face 
Heroine chic
Drug and dancy style 

Juergen Teller 1964
German photographer
Worked with Vivienne Westwood , Marc Jacobs 
Works with musicians 

Corrine Day 1965-2010
British fashion photography 
Worked for The face & Vogue
Kate moss waif look 
Tara - documentary project 

Adobe Photoshop 
Digital image manipulation
Graphics editing programme
First launched 2003 

Terry Richardson
US photographer
Worked for vogue, vanity fair, I.D, harper bazaar 

Nick Knight
UK photographer 
Worked with yohji yammamoto in the 90s and with Alexander McQueen, Christian Dior
Vogue, another, vanity fair

Fashion blogging
Democratises fashion photography
Anyone can write about/photograph fashion
Tavi Genvinsons "style rookie"
Streetstyle Copenhagen 
Poppy Dinsey 2011 - what I wore today 
Company Magazine 20 more fashion bloggers celebrated, 
put forward as a way into employment 
Seems to celebrate real and street 

Exacitudes- ari versluis
Neighbours 2008
Cassettes Gang 2008
Individuality is not possibly
Grouping people together 

Research Brief: Wallpaper* Magazine OUGD405

Basic Research

Wallpaper (trademarked Wallpaper* with an asterisk) is an IPC Media magazine focusing on travel, design, entertainment, fashion, and media. It is a monthly subscription magazine costing £32 a year. Which is relatively cheap compared to other design magazines such as Blue Print costing close to £60.

The magazine was launched in 1996 by Canadian journalist Tyler Brûlé and Austrian journalist Alexander Geringer, CEO of aheadmedia, in London, UK. Brûlé sold the magazine to Time Warner in 1997. He stayed on as editorial director until 2002. 2007 saw the appointment of a new editor-in-chief, Tony Chambers, a self-styled "visual journalist".

Apart from publishing the monthly magazine, Wallpaper also publishes travel guidebooks. There are more than 80 different cities currently available.

Other notable names that have worked at Wallpaper include Jeremy Langmead, Marcus Von Ackermann, Suzy Hoodless, and Alasdhair Willis.

It has had some iconic and beautifully designed covers.

Controversy

In the September 2005 edition, an article by Bronwyn Davies, an English-speaking South African, described Afrikaans as "one of the world's ugliest languages", South African businessman Johann Rupert (chairman of the Richemont group), responded by withdrawing advertising for brands such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Montblanc and Alfred Dunhill from the magazine. The withdrawal of advertising of these brands would have had a huge impact on the magazine. This bought me to realize the importance of advertising in magazines and the income that it can generate. But also the importance of brands advertising in the right magazines in order to sell their products. I decided to conduct a survey asking people if they would purchase an item based on an advertisement in a magazine.

20/25 people said they would purchase an item based on an advertisement in a magazine. 5 said they wouldn’t.

Design of Magazine

The cover designs are always stunningly designed. They are normally eye catching and bold. I particularly like the more stylistic abstract covers. I personally am drawn to the covers, and would buy a magazine based on its cover design. Because of this I decided to conduct a survey to find if others would also buy a magazine based on its cover design.

I asked 25 graphic design students if they would purchase a design magazine based on its front cover.

18 people said they would buy a design magazine based on its cover. 7 people said they were more interested in the content, rather than souly the cover, however it did play a part.

Next I flipped the question and asked the same 25 if they would buy a design magazine with a poorly designed cover 100% of the people said no.

Competitions

Wallpaper* have also ran lots of competitions and interactions with there customers. This is a competition that I found that was particularly interesting and innovative.

“Wallpaper* magazine is once again offering you the chance to play art director and create your very own cover for its Handmade August 2011 issue.

Simply order a copy of the issue (£6) before 31st May and Wallpaper*, in association with Rolex and Kin Design, will give you access to the improved Custom Cover application tools – complete with a whole new palette of graphics, shapes, colours and photography for you to utilise. You can scale, rotate, colour and assemble these any way you like to create your masterpiece.

Also new this year is the ability to add animated designs to your digital cover, which can then be viewed online at wallpaper.com.

We’ve selected a 10 of our favourites below, but if you’re stuck for ideas you can view the entire online gallery of users submissions for some fresh inspiration.”

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RpRGlEzR2vM&feature=player_embedded

Above is a link to an interesting video showing how the design was made.

                 

Aside from producing the monthly magazine and website, Wallpaper also publishes global city guide books with Phaidon Press. There are 80 different cities currently available, and more are being published later in the year. The city guides are published in English and there are also editions available in French, Italian, Spanish, German, Portuguese, and Japanese.